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About Deviant Artist Pearson MooreMale/United States Recent Activity
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Color base layer trials 2-3
COLORED PENCIL UPDATE: I have continued to putter around with my Crayola colored pencils. At this point I am still working on practical schemes for quickly creating a base layer for drawings, concentrating on oil paints (Daler-Rowney set of oil paints in six colors, $3.89 at Wal-mart) thinned with either mineral spirits (heavy petroleum) or turpentine (mixed terpenes from pine trees). In the first test, I cut the paint 50:50 with mineral spirits, but even a thin layer of this was too thick after drying to allow acceptable pencil results in a second layer. So I cut 5x with mineral spirits, in the process crazing and outright cracking several polystyrene paint pots (I'm a chemist--I should have known better), which was still too thick after drying, so I ended up cutting 10x with turpentine in the 3rd test, which gave minimally acceptable pencil results after drying. Probably the 4th round of testing will involve even greater paint dilution. Just creating the paints was a bit of hit and miss. My first attempts at skin tone gave me neon pinks and purplish reds. It took a while to realize that to create an ochre-like color you just don't need much red. In the attached image, my scanner made the blush and yellow ochre/mustard-like colors look almost the same. All I can tell you is that this is a problem with the scanner; in ordinary sunlight and near-sunlight conditions (C-type indoor illuminant for you colorists and chemists out there) these colors are clearly an orange-ish blush and a yellow ochre or reddish mustard color. The third color is a kind of Sienna brown. There are a lot of practical issues to work on. I find neither mineral spirits nor denatured alcohol capable of moving dried paint pigment; both of these merely disperse the colored pencil pigments over the top of the paint surface. So I may have to alter the paints a bit. As with every other oil-based paint I've ever used (I painted farm buildings and houses in my youth; I probably painted almost every barn in Goodhue County, Minnesota at least once during the period 1972-1980), the oil paints I'm using are not truly oil soluble, they're merely pigments and binders and preservatives dispersed in oil, typically linseed oil. Linseed tends to polymerize, and this may be why I am unable to move (solubilize) the paint after it's dried. There are ways to deal with this. One way might be to alter the vehicle (solvent), such as by using a higher alcohol or acetone--well, this is technical chemistry stuff, but the bottom line is that I have some ideas on how to alter the paint in such a way that it behaves more to my liking as a dabbler in colored pencil, and I'll be trying various things.
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Resist 20170110
Facebook Splash January 2017. PLEASE copy, distribute, use, discuss, modify at will IF you oppose the Fascist sexual predator and treasonous criminal Donald J. Trump.
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Color pencil test 20170102
I WANT A BRONZE GODDESS for the cover of my next novel. I could purchase one for $10 "off the shelf," as it were, from an online royalty-free images company--if I could find an image I like. A cover artist could create an image I like--as long as I'm willing to pay $300 to $650. I possess the skill to render the image in graphite--but creating a grayscale image of a BRONZE goddess would probably not win too many readers. I suppose there's some way to manipulate grayscale into bronze, but this again calls on skills I lack, so I'm back to paying someone, which I don't want to do. So I figured, why not do it myself? The problem there is cost of materials. The best colored pencil sets run for $120 to over $300. Yikes! But Wal-mart has a set of Crayola colored pencils in 50 different colors for $5.89. That's a price I can live with. So I've been tinkering around, reading, watching Youtube videos. It seems one of the big differences between graphite and color is LAYERING. Much effort is spent eradicating the last bit of white showing through. I've seen dozens of videos where the artist spends HOURS or even DAYS laying down pencil, only to "blend" it with white or colorless pencil or mineral spirits, which in most cases completely obliterates whatever color gradations exist. It seems as if the first layer has as its primary or sole aim the elimination of white color (or whatever color the paper was initially, to give a smooth color base for whatever features will be contoured in in later layers. After seeing this done, often to poor effect (using white as blender often makes the portrait look like that of a ghost or a vampire, not a real person), I wondered if there wasn't a better way to establish foundation. I think I may have found it: oil paint, Other artists use markers as a foundation. It seems to me oil paint may be a faster, more effective route to create the base. I'll let you be the judge. My tests today seem to show I can make even the dull Crayola pencils spring to life by drawing colored pencil lines over a base of cheap oil paint. But you be the judge.
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Nipnith topgo Tasblishul LQda
Three Blind Mice--in Tasblish. Why? Well, I guess because it's Friday. This version uses Salmogth Font, which I developed for my WIP, The Bronze Goddess, Book III of the Tekval Fitan Series, tentatively scheduled for publication in the Summer of 2018. You can learn how to speak, read, and write Tasblish in Ruveis Tasblishon (Let's Learn Tasblish!) available online and at your local bookstore. www.amazon.com/Lets-Learn-Tasb…
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Bernie Sanders Integrity cPM 20161213 LQda 140 dpi
INTEGRITY. Portrait of Senator Bernie Sanders, graphite on Canson Pure White 80# 14"x17". This one took 32 hours. I used my standard set of graphite pencils (Castell 9000 HB D5, Castell 9000 B D8, Castell 9000 3B D12, Castell 9000 8B D16, Mitsubishi Hi-Uni 6B D20, Art Alternatives Woodless 6B D24). I blended some of the bright patches on the face using Castell 9000 4H D2. Background was done using Koh-I-Noor Hardtmuth Progresso Woodless HB D6, 2B D14, and 8B D18. The suit was done using General's Kimberly 9xxB D21, General's Charcoal 557-2B Med D28, and Wolff's Carbon 6B D32, using Staedtler Mars Lumograph B7 D16 to fill. This was the most time-intensive portrait I've drawn, but I had to get everything right. Every wrinkle on this man's face is holy, for he earned every line and wrinkle and fold by tirelessly fighting for civil rights, women's rights, human rights, working for us, for the Common Good, for the country he loves.
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I started drawing just over two months ago. I was surprised that I could faithfully render images in graphite, and even more surprised that I could create images from multiple models, as I did with the Neandertal skull and some figure studies. Me, an artist? I would have considered the idea a bad joke not even 10 weeks ago, but apparently I can do it. Another artist friend shrugged his shoulders. "You're a novelist, Pearson. You sketch images using words. Now you're using pencils. You've changed media, that's all." He has an interesting perspective, and perhaps there is some truth in his thought.

As I increased my technical range, I began to notice things that bothered me, or at least raised my curiosity level. For instance, I noticed pretty quickly that graphite tends to have a higher reflectance (becomes shinier) at higher density or application pressure. This isn't surprising, based on what I know about the structure of graphite dust, but the discovery led me to other questions. Why, for example, did my Derwent 2B pencil seem to have nearly the same darkness value as my Derwent 4B? Did I just get a bad lot of pencils, or is narrow value at high B numbers a quality of Derwent pencils? Do other manufacturers suffer the same narrow range?

I bought a few pencils and was surprised at what I found. Taking the question further, I built testing equipment so I could compare one pencil to another without subjective bias. I'm looking for input from graphite pencil artists on the kinds of pencil qualities I should investigate. I will be looking at graphite darkness (value), reflectance, reproducibility, value range (from 4H to 9B), breakability, friability, colour, and value v. application pressure (measured as grams then converted to Newtons). What other measurable qualities should I look at?

Building test equipment is not new to me. Over the last 40 years I've occasionally had to build R&D equipment when no commercial equivalent was available. I created a sheeting device out of an aquarium tank, for instance. This was an apparatus that allowed me to study glassware sheeting phenomena during the wash process. Some years ago I was working with benzoyl peroxide and was tasked with quantifying its effects. The problem here is that pure benzoyl peroxide is explosive when dry, so it is shipped in 30 percent water. I had to create a high-humidity chamber so I could weigh the stuff accurately, water and all, without the water evaporating during the weighing process. That was maybe the most challenging device I created, but accurate, reproducible pencil testing devices have proven only slightly less difficult. I look forward to your ideas about pencil testing!

deviantID

PearsonMoore2
Pearson Moore
Artist
United States
I was born in the fourth year of my life, my birth delayed by the meagre circumstances of my parents, who were itinerant disposable razor repair technicians. I died in an unfortunate accident when I was fifteen, but it was the famous conundrum of 1957, now the subject of jokes, in which the plane crashed on the U.S.-Mexico border, and the survivors were all buried in Mexico. Luckily, I was not among the survivors, and therefore I was not buried. That was my first lucky break, and I have had several since then. Needless to say, I feel lucky to be here, participating in one of the best art websites where everyone takes their work very, very seriously indeed. No silliness at this website. No, sirree.

I published my first book, "LOST Humanity." You can read about the book here: pearsonmoore-gets-lost.com/def… and you can purchase a copy here: amzn.to/dEA5yv

I am a regular weekly contributor at Dark UFO:
darkufo.blogspot.com/

I will be writing a weekly blog starting April 17, 2011, at Westeros.org:
www.westeros.org/

These are some of my websites:
Author: www.authorsden.com/pearsonmoor…
Novels: pearsonmoore.net/
Lost: pearsonmoore-gets-lost.com/
Canada: pearsonmoore.blogspot.com/
GoT: winterfellkeep.com/

My first book, "LOST Humanity," will be published in 2011. My first novel, "Cartier's Ring," will be published in 2011 or 2012.

NOW that I've given you all this nifty info, I demand an answer to the question that must be one everyone's mind:

Just what in the Sam Hill is a "Devian Tart"?

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:icontessabe:
tessabe Featured By Owner Edited Jul 23, 2016
This account yes, my art account no. I just have to remember which e-mail I used or make a new account.

I've found tigonderoga and cheap novelty pencils have the darkest lead. You could make a device similar to the automatic pen that became the prototype for tattoo guns. Instead of pricking the paper it could just replicate the movement of one master pencil. You could probably work it so several work at once. It's a thought anyway.
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:iconpearsonmoore2:
PearsonMoore2 Featured By Owner Jul 24, 2016
Hi Teresa!

Dixon Ticonderoga #2 (HB) is darker than several other HB pencils, but by no means the darkest HB. The Ticonderoga #2 has a darkness of D7, which is actually a little below the average HB darkness of D10. The darkest HBs I've found are the General's Semi-Hex HB and Conté à Paris Graphite HB, both with darkness value D16. Since darkness varies so much between manufacturers, and since some manufacturers' quality control is poor, I tend to look at darkness, softness, and pressure insensitivity (D, S, and P) as more useful values than grade classification (HB, 2B, 4B, etc.), at least for my work.  So, for instance, my "current set" of what I call five-dimensional pencils consists of Castell 9000 F, Mitsubishi Hi-Uni HB, Castell 9000 3B, Castell 9000 8B, and Mitsubishi Hi-Uni 6B. These are not random choices. I chose these 5 because these pencils have darkness values of D4, D8, D12, D16, and D20, which probably makes sense intuitively; I can use these five to span the complete range of darkness values, and transitions from one pencil to another are smooth. But actually, softness and pressure insensitivity are important factors, too. It's possible to choose a set of D4, D8, D12, D16, D20 pencils that give poor transition from one pencil to another. I've found the key is to include pressure sensitivity, and P9 to P11 seems to be just about the right sensitivity for a set of 4 or 5 pencils. The P values for my "Current set" are P9, P9, P9, P9, and P13. The only outlier is the Mitsubishi Hi-Uni 6B (D value D20), which has a high pressure insensitivity of P13, but for such a dark pencil, P13 is actually pretty low. If you've ever tried a really dark pencil, you may have noticed that it tends to give a dark line no matter how softly you apply graphite to paper. This is called pressure insensitivity--the pencil is insensitive to pressure, giving pretty much the same darkness no matter how hard (or light) you press. Most D20 pencils have pressure insensitivities around P18 or P20, so P13 is just about the best you can find in this darkness class. If you're wondering where I got all these D and P values, I took several months to measure them, using equipment I built. It's all laid out in "Pearson's Graphite 2015," which gives a full analysis of some 24 variables for 379 commercially available pencils. You can find more advanced information on pencil characteristics in the "Technical Graphite" gallery at my Deviant Art page.
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:icontessabe:
tessabe Featured By Owner Jul 24, 2016
Thanks I've been using copics more than pencils lately, that's good information.
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:iconpearsonmoore2:
PearsonMoore2 Featured By Owner Jul 25, 2016
Teresa,

I'm glad I could be useful! I know a lot about graphite, but nothing about anything else, so I have no idea what copics are. Co-pictures? Something that adds to a picture somehow? Well, if it's better than graphite it's gotta be good. :)
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(1 Reply)
:iconnudetaylor:
NudeTaylor Featured By Owner Mar 14, 2016  Hobbyist Artist
Wonderful work! 
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:iconpearsonmoore2:
PearsonMoore2 Featured By Owner Mar 30, 2016
Thank you!
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:iconnudetaylor:
NudeTaylor Featured By Owner Apr 2, 2016  Hobbyist Artist
You are welcome!  If you like my look and ever need reference photos, I would be honored to give some to you from my private collection.  I have thousands that are not posted on dA (that also fully show my face) - everything from classic nudes to highly erotic.  Please let me know your thoughts and keep up the great work! 

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